Since leaving the leadership of Trout Unlimited in the late 1970's, Teller has directed his attention to producing premium quality wines at his Oak Hill vineyard near Sonoma. Well before the publication of Rachel Carson's Silent Spring, Teller emphasized organic farming methods avoiding use of pesticides in favor of biological controls.
A primary concern of Teller's has been the reliance on irrigation by vineyards along the Russian River which has resulted in a substantial lowering of the water table. The lowered water table has contributed to the drying up of tributaries to the river and destruction of the salmon and steel-head fishery. By irrigating their vineyards, farmers expect to substantially increase the yield per acre - and their profits. Teller challenges this approach, and if the quality of his wines is an index of his accuracy, he knows whereof he speaks.
Michelle Bouchet, staff writer for the Sonoma Index-Tribune, in the August 3, 1993 issue, quotes Robert Parker, noted wine writer and publisher of "The Wine Advocate" as describing Ravenwood's Zinfandel - Old Hill as the "quintessential Zinfandel . . . In the mouth it is pure decadence," and the best he has tried.
Bouchet goes on to state that Teller, grower of the Old Hill grapes, Sonoma grape grower Charlie Cooke and Ravenwood owner/wine maker Joel Peterson attribute the quality of the wine to the vineyards the grapes come from. "Seventy percent of what I do in the winery is in the vineyard noted Peterson."
"Both Old Hill and Cooke's vineyards are primarily dry-farmed and yield very low production."
"Teller's vineyard dates back to the late 20's and when he began farming it, the vines were unattended, overgrown and virtually not producing. But he carefully nursed the vineyard back to health using organic growing methods and now it is one of the most renowned vineyards in the valley."
Copyright Mendocino Environmental Center 2004
Permission granted to excerpt or use this article if source is cited